Sliding Barn Door

Our walk-in basement needed a door of some sort. Over the years we always pondered what would fit well but never got to a final plan. We had a curtain hang from a tension rod since inception. My wife saw the sliding door design on and thus started our sweat equity to stand up one.

In our case we had 2 more challenges. First one was to build a header wall as the current opening was a full opening from the ceiling to the floor. The second issue was the opening was wider than the one shown in the design. Based on my analysis it was still do-able I would have to buy some extra wood planks and also ended up buying some extract brackets to support the steel railing.

Started to chisel through the opening to expose the studs behind the drywall. Had to saw the end of the existing ceiling trims.

Created and installed the header frame. Material used is 2″x4″ and 2″x6″ stud. Also sandwiched a 1/4″ thick plywood between the 2 2″x6″. Used 10D 3″ Bright Common nails and a hammer to constructor the door header. There are a lot of videos on youtube which show details on how to construct one. I had to remove some extra drywall from one side so that I could nail the structure to existing studs.

Then came the drywall. I bought 4 1/2″x2’x2′ Drywall panels instead of one large one, as the large one would have been a lot and it wouldn’t even fit in my car. It was half the cost though. Used drywall screws to fix the drywall to the header frame.

Used corner metal bead on the edges.

Covered the screws with the 1-7/8″x150 white mesh joint tape and then applied mud. Used USG all purpose joint compound. Applying the joint compound is a pain and that was the most difficult step. To get an even application is very very tough.

Final step was to apply the paint, thankfully we had the left-over shades from our house painting expedition, so that perfectly came in handy.

Started building the door. Instructions from lowes helped and I had to add a couple of 1×8 – 8ft pine T&G boards for my layout. Material for the door is pine wood, and each attachment is of different sizes like, 1×4 – 8ft, 1×2 – 8ft and 1×6 – 8ft. Used a Kreg jig and 1-1/4″ Kreg pocket screws for the frame joints.

My wife decided to apply a stain to the wood. Used Watco Danish Oil Cherry 550V using tack cloths. Final step was now to assemble roller and rail assembly. The recommended rail and roller assembly wasn’t easily available.  Most Lowes stores did not have in stock and wasn’t available online either. Finally found only one store which said it carried it which was around 60 miles one-way. I needed 8′ long tube and the one they had was 10′. I thought that would work for my space but then when I held it up against the wall, it did seem too long, so I had to now get it cut to length. I took it to a Home Depot close to my work place and they cut it for me, no charge.

Fit the 2 Stanley-National Hardware 2.01-in Steel Sliding Patio Door Roller or Pulley Roller to the door. The 8-ft L x 2.4-in W x 1.88-in H Plated Steel Plain Square Tube was fixed to the wall using 5 Steel Screen Door and Storm Door Top Brackets.

That’s it, door installed and works like a charm.






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